I Sing The Bike Electric

Now that I am getting up there in age, I have become intrigued by e-bikes and how I might benefit from having one in my collection. I’ve read many reviews and test ridden a few e-bikes of late. Bikes with integrated systems that have a throttle and bikes that are purely pedal-assist. Some are direct drive with regenerative braking and others with geared motors that freewheel when coasting and don’t regenerate. There are many who love them and many who hate them. Then there are those of us somewhere in the middle. I think the biggest misconception regarding e-bikes and conversion kits is the notion that they will turn your bike into an electric motor-bike. So not true. What it does is it turns your pedal-only bike into a hybrid. That means it requires a shared input of your muscle power and power from the electric motor. It will not pull you up a hill. It will help you pedal up a hill. The more you help it, the longer your range. The more it helps you, the shorter your range. If you ride on level ground, you will probably get the range as advertised. If you ride steep inclines, you will not get the range as advertised. Simple, right? When we understand how these things work, then we can sort though the many e-bikes and conversion kits that are available and make the right choice for our own purposes.

There are kits and components that are of such high wattage (beyond the allowable lawful limits) that they will indeed pull the rider up a hill without any assistance. These components require lots of power and can drain a battery in minutes. Bigger battery, you say? Fine. More weight and more expense for a few more minutes. I am not interested in the unlimited category of electric cycles for there are, I’m sure, electric machines that can scorch a quarter mile track quicker than many internal combustion powered machines. I am more interested in kits that are street legal, widely available, and backed by the retailer.

The point of this discussion is to realize that there are limits. Limits to the application, limits to our equipment and limits to our pocketbooks. 

A while back I had the opportunity to test ride the very expensive $7000 Specialized Turbo, pedal-assist e-bike. I was impressed by the ease with which I could pedal uphill and pass traffic. I felt like some sort of superman able to pedal at 28 mph with as little pedal force as I would exert on a casual ride with my wife. This was both exciting and terrifying as I realized that I could go very fast with little effort, while I would normally work harder to go slower on questionable terrain (for a bicycle). This became very evident to me after I had purchased the more affordable throttle-only, $1200 msrp, front wheel Currie Electric Kit-3 with a brushless geared hub motor for one of my MTB frames which I had converted some time ago to a simplified and easy to use, single speed, coaster braked cruiser. I had further refit this bike with 26x1.50 smooth tread Panaracer tires, which I keep inflated to the 85psi maximum for efficiency, front and rear v-brakes, lights and wider handlebars for better leverage. This simple, throttle only 500w and 36v kit can take you to 20mph on terrain you would normally be pedaling at around 5-8mph. Potholed asphalt and loose gravel get real dodgy on a rigid framed e-bike even at 10mph.

As I use this kit on this particular frame, I am learning more about my own limitations as a rider as well as the limitations of the components. I have learned to use the throttle-only system quite effectively. Instead of letting a “pedalec” system do the thinking for me, where the onboard computer meters power proportionally to pedal torque and/or cadence, I do this simply by applying just enough throttle to make my desired cadence and pedal pressure comfortable. Then often times I’ll let the throttle go to zero or turn the unit completely off while I continue riding until I need additional assistance. This becomes second nature and I have been able to travel 35+mi with lots of power remaining in the battery. I have yet to get caught with zero power with miles yet to go.

I can climb moderate inclines at a respectable speed around my hilly neighborhood without much sweat, climbing long grades that would normally be too exhausting for me to ascend. The sweating begins on the downhill ride, coasting with it switched off. At a blazing 35+ mph on a rigid framed, 80s vintage chromoly MTB bike with all that extra heavy electrical equipment, coaster brakes alone are woefully inadequate and things can get rather crazy very quickly. Luckily the fork has bosses for v-brakes as well as bosses on the rear stays. Front and rear v-brakes are the very least amount of stopping power one needs to be safe. Anything less would be too dangerous.

I’ve been using this bike traversing the foothills on errands and cruising yard sales with a friend in my neighborhood. Without the power assist I would not be cycling around this area at all. Unlike my stronger friend with his tricked-out Salsa and single wheeled trailer in tow, using the La Crescenta foothills as treadmills for his daily workout, I reserve my local rides to the occasional electric joyride. When we do ride together, the incompatibility is apparent. On an uphill trudge, he will be in a low, hill climbing gear, slow but steady without the cares of running out of power, while my electric wheel needs more rpm to keep from bogging and draining the battery. Thus, our two rates of speed become incongruous with one another. This is mostly due to having only one gear and depending on the electric motor to compensate. So, I speed ahead to relieve my motor of the strain and heat build-up and wait for him at the top. I have tried to power-pedal up steep grades without electrical help, but the single speed gearing is too high to have the mechanical advantage for forward motion therefore impossible for me to accomplish. With that said, this configuration seems a good match because for the most part the motor negates the need for gears; it can carry a light load on the rear rack with side baskets, bike bucket or panniers and allows me to sprint up the final steep hill to my house (providing I have at least ¼ battery capacity left) and requires little to no maintenance.

This is the first of what will be many configurations before I am ready for other kits. The obvious next step was to put this kit on another bike with a multi-geared drive train, so I put it on an older 18-speed MTB and got better performance with the ability to use the “granny gear” with very little throttle input. My range is still great and the ride is very stable and comfortable. The thing is that, I have been hauling “stuff” on the rear rack using panniers and baskets. I’ve noticed the load makes the rear part of the bike very whippy or overly flexible.

My only option now is to design and build a lightweight cargo bike that will perform well with this particular kit. 

I considered a cycle truck configuration but my kit is a 26” front wheel model and a cycle truck uses a small front wheel to keep the load lower in a deep basket, rigid to the frame not the fork.

After making a few sketches, I decided to go with a long-tail, rear loader design based on a Peugeot mixte frame. I made a list of necessary features I found to be obvious. Lateral rigidity, low center of gravity for the cargo section, low cost to make, low maintenance and low cross tube design to help the rider control a heavier than usual bike.

I gathered components and elements to pre-visualize the overall shape and structure and laid them out on a full-size drawing. For days I would arrange and rearrange these elements, solving logistical problems and testing out each solution in my mind.

I have found this to be the most effective way to achieve the intentions of my mind’s eye when using only scrap parts and materials from previous projects. So much of even the most unusable bit and scrap sometimes becomes the solution to a design conundrum. Therefore, I never throw anything away and have accumulated several boxes of scrap metal of all shapes and sizes. A curved section here, an odd shaped piece there, or the tiniest of trim piece, usually rescues me from having to create much needed gussets, braces, extensions or details needed to make a design come together. Even though my bikes might be considered Frankenbikes, they don’t look like they are made of several bikes mashed together. Instead they look like unique production builds. It is only when I point out to someone that I used cut up fork sections for a chainstay and headtube brace, that they see it. And even then, some still have difficulty seeing the ‘Franken-ness’ in my approach. That is the payoff of pre-visualization and thinking things through. It is also a luxury to build non-commercially without regard to anyone else's vision except my own.

Head tube extension to raise the front and keep fork angle correct.

Finally I reached the point at which I started to fabricate. As I used only recycled and repurposed materials, I knew this prototype would get a bit heavier than an ideal scenario of ‘super light Reynolds double or triple butted, drawn over mandrel, custom made to length tubing’ that could cost more for one seat stay than I spent on the entire frame. I’ll leave that kind of obsession to the artisan that makes multiple frame sets at $5000 a pop. I am only interested in prototyping my own concepts. Any version of my designs or prototypes that are made lighter can only be an improvement.

Another jig-less build.

Making sure the bottom bracket height is sufficient.

A temporary axle is used to keep the dropout width within specifications.

Soon, it all came together and a new configuration was born.

I have tested this bike out quite extensively and found I get 30mi+ range while carrying all my stuff and then some.

Good gear range and simplicity makes the Nexus 7-speed internally-geared rear wheel the most important component for reliability. Front and rear v-brakes (I swear by them) allow me to have absolute control and stopping power. Fenders front and rear allow me and my cargo to stay clean on wet or dry pavement. Comfortable riding position reduces fatigue and allows me to ride long hauls. Versatile cargo station allows for baskets, panniers and boxes all on the same load. A heavy-duty center stand keeps the entire package rock solid while loading and unloading and a spring stabilizer at the fork keeps the front wheel from flopping from one side to another while elevated.

All this on a cargo bike makes the riding experience very pleasant. It doesn’t feel heavy, awkward or unstable. Instead, it’s fast, tight, light and nimble. One of my favorite designs to date.

There are smaller, lighter, less expensive kits but they cannot do the job required for my use. They might be good for someone with bad knees who still wants to get out there and ride or a commuter who uses a bike for transportation on relatively flat terrain and needs just a little help to justify not using their car and get to their destination without being drenched in sweat. 

As you research and explore an electric option for yourself, you will soon realize that the quality of the kit is essential and a battery of sufficient size and capacity will be the most costly and heavy component. I do not need an electric kit to enjoy bike riding, but if I plan to ride up hills for errands in my neighborhood without feeling like I’m about to have a stroke, then this kit is working for me.

P.S.

Now that I’ve been an owner of an e-bike kit for almost two years, I have come to a rather disappointing conclusion about them. Most kits have limited warrantees on them due to the fact that many of the lithium batteries used are only good for two (my case) to four years or max number of charge cycles which ever comes first, until the chemicals within go bad and render the battery useless and become toxic waste that needs to be dealt with properly. So for another $800 (again my case) to $2000 or more, you must purchase another battery pack to keep your e-bike an e-bike. For a couple of hundred dollars less, you could hack the battery pack and replace the cells yourself, if you know what you are doing. Or find someone to do it for you and you’re back up to spending retail again. Not to mention the motor itself. Plastic, composite or nylon gears are used because they don’t require lubrication as they are considered self-lubricating. But they will wear out eventually and require some service. Relatively inexpensive compared to batteries. Some would-be hotrodders will use these motors in conjunction with higher voltage power supplies to get more speed but soon find out that higher speeds equal more friction and heat, wearing out the gears sooner and turning the gears into a mass of “plastic peanut butter”. But I digress.

Imagine any regular bike with a shelf-life causing you to reinvest hundreds or thousands of dollars every two to four years (whether you ride it or not) just to keep it a ‘bike’. You probably wouldn't own one. I certainly wouldn’t.

Although as time goes by, battery technology continues to advance and prices fall a bit still, companies that produce these kits and e-bikes need to either have a buy back or trade-in program for batteries because many of us now, and many to follow, will have a very rude awakening. I for one, cannot recommend ownership of an e-bike. The battery technology is too expensive and too temporary. Instead, just rent an e-bike for the thrill of it because they are a lot of fun. 

Then walk away.

As for my custom e-bike build, eventually I will simply replace the front wheel with a stock rim, remove the battery and in its place make a locking trunk box for spare tubes and tools and still have a great everyday cargo bike. When and if battery technology allows for dramatically lower cost and much longer life, then and only then will it be restored back to an e-bike. 

I designed it for that eventuality.

KG

Orange DreamCycle

My design sense often leads me just outside the proverbial box. Just enough to create something unique that no one else has. I’m not into freak bikes but bikes that are functional, enjoyable to ride and to look at (for me). I make bikes from older cut up frame sections, reimagined into a fun to ride bike that attracts some attention (Frankenbikes). Lately I’ve been designing bikes with two different sized wheels. As in my front-loading Bakfiet with a 20” front and a 26” rear, it makes sense. But with my other mismatched wheeled creations, 700c in front with a 20” rear, the combination tends to get people scratching their heads and asking the same question, “Why a small wheel in the rear?” To this I usually reply, “I dunno, I think it looks cool.”

Although this design is more compact, as well as lighter in weight and quick initial roll, having a small wheel in the rear makes for a bumpier ride and lowers all the gearing which requires some special attention to get that tall gear back. I can either install a larger chainring or fewer teeth at the cog. A 60t chainring requires a new bottom bracket, spider and crank arms. Or a new wheel can be laced with a Caprio hub and cassette fitted with a 9t cog. Or for a really tall gear, I can do both. In any case, with all that is available, it’s possible for me to make a bike with a small rear wheel and have gearing as tall as I can handle.

In order to go to these extremes with the gearing, I need to make those decisions before I start building the frame. For a 60t chainring, chain stays need to be designed to accommodate the larger diameter. The bottom bracket shell needs to be compatible with components to handle a 110 bcd or more for the rare 60t chainring. If I choose to go with a specialty hub that can take a 9t cog, the dropout width needs to be known and addressed.

The bike's gearing is based on a 20” wheel with a 7 speed 14t-28t Shimano freewheel from a mini velo. The frame was made from two different bikes. An old Nishiki road bike, a kid’s 20” wheeled mountain bike and bits of metal scraps from other projects. They come in handy when I need a small piece of curve or taper for supports and details.

For this project, I used the original cotter crank with a 53t chainring. After the frame was fabricated, painted and all the components I intended to use were installed, I realized my first problem. The left side crank arm was not clearing the chain stay and was rubbing. I could do one of three things. First, I could replace the bottom bracket with a longer spindle, but that would require a whole new bracket and crank assembly (I’m too cheap to buy them). Secondly, I could locally modify the chain stay at the point of contact with the crank arm by dimpling the tube for clearance, but that would require repainting or even re-welding in the event I messed it up (at the time I was pretty sure I’d mess it up). And thirdly, I could grind the heel of the arm just enough to clear. Because the cotter crank is made of forged steel, I thought this to be the better and most painless option. 

I’m happy to report that it worked well and has not compromised the pedal attachment at all.

After all was finished, I took it out on many rides but soon realized my high gear was too low for more high speed downhill pedaling (53t-14t). But I was stuck. I couldn’t go with a 60t chainring without reworking the frame or have another wheel made requiring a wider dropout. I could have installed a 20” wheel with a Nexus 7 hub from a Dahon that I subsequently bought on Craig’s List for another project, but I had done and purchased so much for a derailleur system with shifters and all, that I was determined to make this setup work.  After some research I found a compromise. Turns out, there is a 7 speed 11t-28t freewheel made by Epoch that would replace the 14t-28t Shimano. I bought one online along with a thin-walled, deep-spline removal tool. 

The only issue was that it did not go on to the exact position as the original Shimano. It was a few millimeters shifted to the right and brought the chain much too close to the inside of the dropout. 

I then rearranged and replaced the spacers on the axle to bring the entire wheel a few millimeters to the left thus giving me the correct chain clearance and smooth shifting. I did the same to the v-brakes for symmetrical action. While it is true that my wheel is slightly off center, it is barely noticeable and hardly requires a re-dishing of the wheel.

Now I feel the bike’s gearing (53t-11t) is as normal as that of any bike I have in my collection. I am not a clipped-in spandex cyclist but more of a pleasure rider. Sure, I could go stiffer but that will be for another project.

In solving this problem, I’ve learned a lot and feel I’ve solved future problems as I continue to design and build just outside the box.

P.S. As to that question of “Why?”, I now simply say,

“Because I can”.

Going Dutch

Last time I was in Portland Or., I stopped at several yard sales and flea markets along my usual routes around town. I must say that PDX has some of the best yard sales I have ever been to. I don’t know exactly why that is but it just is. Even when residents throw out stuff from their garages and basements, they usually put a sign on the pile that says “Free Stuff” and often times the “stuff” is really good, and it doesn’t take long before the entire pile disappears. I’ve scored tools, hobby items and collectables often new-in-box from just one pile. Now that I think about it, the fact that they have basements (unlike here in L.A.) might be why they hold on to generations of stuff until they decide to have a yard sale or toss it to the curb for anyone to pick through.

One day I happened upon a garage sale on NE 33rd. There was a tall blue Schwinn World road bike with warped wheels and bent drop bars leaning against the house. I was mostly interested in the frame for a forward slanting pursuit bike I had always wanted build so after a brief negotiation, I got it for $10. But after some months of it sitting at my house, I started to have different ideas as to what I could do with it to make it my own design.

I took notice of the Dutch step-through frames that are gaining popularity, thanks to Flying Pigeon LA in Cypress Park  flyingpigeon-la.com , and realized they all seem to have a tall head tube in common. 

The other signature feature of a Dutch frame is the gracefully curved top tube. For this, I would have to purchase yet another tool. A tubing roller (not bender). I got lucky and scored one from Harbor Freight for $130. After a quick trip to my new favorite place, Industrial Metal Supply in Sunland, I was ready to make a bike.

This build presented few problems due to the fact that all the cuts to the frame did not allow for the critical angles to change or have to be jigged back into shape. The cut frame held all angles for an easy and straight refit of the new tubes and fabrications.

The only part that gave me concern was the gross imperfections of the Harbor Freight tubing roller, but with some coaxing it gave me the results I wanted. I would never consider this roller for a production tool but it's good for DIY projects.

When I bought this frame in PDX, I told the seller, Chelsey, I was going to modify it and would email photos of the build as a gesture of thanks for the bargain price. The bike’s original rider was her father, Alan and because I like to brand my two-wheeled creations I dubbed it the VANALAN (Van-Alan) with some decals I found at a local model train shop. Although it was rather tedious to slide on fragile water transfers one by one, it was the most rewarding part. 

I used as many original parts as I could. You would be surprised at how much one can spend on just low-end components for a single bike. As I have no resale number (because I am not a commercial enterprise), I have to pay retail for everything.

Original Equipment: Headset and Stem, Seatpost, Front and Rear Brake Calipers, Bottom Bracket, Chainrings, Crank Arms and Pedals.

New Parts: Front and Rear Alloy Wheels with Single Speed Hub and 17t Freewheel Cog, Tires and Tubes, Grips, Saddle, Brake Cables and Housing (the good stuff), HD Single Speed Chrome Drive Chain, Bell, Dust Caps for Crank, Kickstand and Tail Light.

Recycled Parts from other Bikes or Parts Stash: Handlebars, Old-School Dia-Compe Brake Levers, Seat Clamp, Hardware Bits to modify rear caliper cable entry from below, and  Wheel Reflectors.

This bike has become one of my better builds as I refine my process to a higher standard. My bikes will always have that “hand-made” quality about them with slight imperfections that, as my wife says, only I can see.